| Jorsalé to Namche Bazaar: The Stats |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Distance walked: 4.6km |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Hours and Minutes Taken: 3 hours, 50 minutes |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Origin Altitude: Jorsalé, 2825m |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Destination Altitude: Namche Bazaar, 3450m |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Approximate Total Metres Ascended: 715m |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Approximate Total Metres Descended: 90m |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Weather: A clear, cool, still morning with patches of cloud and wind increasing around midday. |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Morning Temperature in our Tea House Room: 7 degrees Celsius |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
 |
| Morning rays hit Khumbila above Dudh Kosi |
Despite not having a huge day of walking ahead of us we got up early as to beat the crowds we encountered yesterday...not that Jorsalé was exactly bustling with tourists. They were all in Namche already having pushed on yesterday afternoon.
We had more muesli for brekky and Anando tried the Sherpa stew. The kind man in charge of our guest house, Dhah Rai, even gave me some of the leftover stew to try. It was delicious, filled with buffalo meat, vegetables and something that resembled the outside of a momo. We got our bill and liked Dhah Rai even more...he had dropped the rooms to 100 from 150. It's so nice when you agree on a price and they lower the cost without you even having to bargain.
 |
| West bank of the river after leaving Jorsalé |
While Anando and I finished off our breakfasts and my Nepali chia (tea) Chris the photographer went back to the part of the river we had first visited yesterday. Thanks to the clear weather Kumbila Peak was clearly visible and was lit up a beautiful pinky orange colour by the rising sun so he captured some amazing shots.
At 6:30am we were ready to begin the arduous climb to Namche Bazaar. We left Jorsalé early enough to even beat the guards who man the army check post on the outskirts of town and who would usually have checked our permits. After crossing the swaying bridge under which Chris had been taking photos the path followed the rocky river bank, crossing a small log bridge over a channel of water. Ahead we spotted another suspension bridge, known as Larja Dhoban, this one swaying high above the Dudh Kosi.
 |
| Larja Dhoban swings above the meeting rivers |
 |
| Braving Larja Dhoban bridge |
A steep rocky path of mostly stairs led us up to the bridge and as we climbed we could see where the Bhote Kosi met the raging Dudh Kosi with which we had become so familiar. Chris again tackled his fear of heights choosing to looking straight after making the mistake of looking down through the steel slats to the rapids below. The walk across this long bridge was a dizzying experience but the views, with the fluttering prayer flags and the the rivers' meeting point, were stunning.
 |
| Kwangde Range on the way to Namche |
Once on the other side of Larja Dhoban was the final steep climb to Namche, where we would climb 600m in just a couple of kilometres. It was an exhausting climb but we dared not complain as we were passed by Sherpas carrying huge loads of supplies. We were determined to take it slowly and the steep gradient, uneven ground and high altitude didn't give us much choice. We followed the trail as it worked its way back and forth up the steep wooded slope. The Sherpas on the other hand took shortcuts which took them straight up the hill.
 |
| The first view of Everest, peaking out from behind the ridge |
After climbing about 230m we spotted Everest for the very first time, peeking above the Lhotse-Nuptse Ridge. Most trekkers miss this view as they climb this part of the trek in the afternoon. Thanks to our out-of-phase schedule the skies were stunningly clear. While stopped to take in the views we went to relieve ourselves in the bushes. Turns out this was a popular place to do so as I emerged having stepped in something I wish I hadn't have.
Further up the path we arrived at the official viewpoint for Mt Everest set up with chautaras (stone ledges) for porters to rest. We made use of the chautaras and did out own bit of resting before beginning the final leg of the climb. The trail was dusty but less steep now. Still, progress was slow.
We passed through another official checkpoint where they signed us in, keeping track of where on the trail people are at all times. Unless of course you're early birds like us and miss one of the check posts like the one in Jorsalé this morning.
 |
| Kwangde Range, approaching Namche |
As we walked into Namche Bazaar there was gridlock on the path as yaks held up groups of trekkers trying to descend. This set the tone for Namche and as we walked further into town our first impression was confirmed. This place was tourist central! We took the alternate upper track into town, mostly by accident, so missed the gateway to town. Namche was bustling with shops, restaurants, guesthouses and the Saturday Market.
There was certainly no shortage of lodges in town. We asked around and found that unless you ate at your guesthouse they upped the prices like the guy in Jorsalé had tried to do to us. Turns out its the norm. Sill, he was pretty rude about it. And at least now we knew to ask.
We settled on Kumbu Lodge and got two rooms for 200 rupees because their triple room was unavailable. We would need to eat two meals a day there to secure this price but we didn't mind considering eating out was just as expensive. There were no local-looking budget places here.
After a short walk around town to check out the prices of other restaurants we returned to our guesthouse and figured we'd go all out and eat something other than dal baht, considering this may be one of the last places where this food is available, or cheap. The boys had steak while I had spaghetti bolognese. We should have had bhat. A least with baht they keep serving you until you are stuffed.
Our time in Namche was to be spent acclimatising so there would be no rest for the wicked. Our plan was to visit Syangboche, situated on a hill over 300m above Namche because apparently walking up 600m today just wasn't enough.
Namche Bazaar to Syangboche (and Back): The Stats
Distance Walked: 4km
Hours and Minutes Taken: 2 hours, 38 minutes
Origin Altitude: Namche Bazaar, 3450m
Destination Altitude: Syangboche, 3790m
Approximate Total Metres Ascended: 380m
Approximate Total Metres Descended: 380m
Weather: Sunny but a little windy as we gained altitude
We headed through Namche and passed the monastery. From the far West of Namche we could take in the views of Kwangde range in the West, Kusum Kanguru in the South-East (the three peaks of with which we were now familiar) as well as Thamserku and Kantega. The sun glare and light cloud made the views less impressive and photography difficult but still it was spectacular.
 |
| Lauren with Mt Thamserku and Kangtega hiding behind |
From the viewpoint we walked back towards town before taking a left which we hoped would lead us up to Syangboche. We thought this was the path that everybody took when they went to acclimatise in Syangboche. Turns out we were wrong and this became more and more apparent, the higher we climbed. The path disappeared and became a tangle of Sherpa tracks. It was a steep climb and, with our final elevation being 3790m, the air was thinner than ever. After every few steps we stopped to catch our breath and take in the marvellous views that spread in every direction.
 |
| Chris with Mt Thamserku and Kangtega hiding behind on the walk to Syangboché |
After losing track of the correct path we figured if we just walked up we'd end up in Syangboche eventually. And, we did. We came to a chorten by a shrine to a deceased American climber. A good place to enjoy some well earned dried fruit and nuts. We had a look at Syangboche airstrip (a bit of grass with yaks grazing on it) and figured it was probably a good thing that they had stopped using it to fly tourists into the luxury hotels up there. At that altitude, too many people were getting sick.
 |
| A chorten in front of the Kwangde Range, approaching Syangboche |
 |
| Snacks before Mt Thamserku and Kangtega |
 |
| Namche Bazaar from above the town |
Soon we found the path that the guidebook had recommended we follow from Namche. Turns out it left from the East side of town, not the West. We are loving not having a guide because it means we get to go on little adventures like this. We followed the stone steps back down into Namche, taking in its impressive horseshoe shape as we did so.
As we approached the village itself a man spun a prayer wheel causing a bell to ring each time it completed a circuit. Meanwhile a herd of yaks walked past and prayer flags fluttered and we were truly in Nepal. This was our first sighting of real yaks rather than the crossbreed with cows, designed for lower altitudes, that Chris has affectionately named Yows.
 |
| A 'trekkers' shower' at Khumbu Lodge |
Back at our guesthouse it was time to brave the cold water in the sink and do a little bit of cleaning. This was the first time since leaving Kathmandu that we had access to running water (and even a Western toilet) so we took full advantage. Laundry, faces and feet got scrubbed until our hands were too numb to go on.
Posted with Blogsy
No comments:
Post a Comment