Trekking Day 6: Tengboché to Shomaré

Tengboché monastery

Tengboché to Shomaré: The Stats

Distance Walked: 7.1km

Hours and Minutes Taken: 3 hours, 53 minutes

Origin Altitude: Tengboché, 3890m

Destination Altitude: Shomaré, 4064

Approximate Total Metres Ascended: 412m

Approximate Total Metres Descended: 232m

Weather: A cold, clear morning with increasing cloud around midday.

Morning Temperature in our Tea House Room: 3 degrees Celsius

Lauren vs Yak, Tengboché

We had a relatively relaxed morning in Tengboché this morning. We went outside to take a few photos of the gorgeous mountains surrounding the village and were amazed by just how close they now appeared. The monastery looked stunning with the Tengkangboché mountains as backdrop.

We returned to the guesthouse for breakfast and let muesli with hot milk warm our bellies and prepare us for the hike that lay ahead.

Beyond Tengboché the trail followed the Imja Khola upstream. We descended from the Tengboché meadow to the river bank through yet more forest of birch and rhododendrons. After about an hour we reached Deboché. Continuing to follow the Imja Khola the trail now sat high above the river. We saw the remnants of numous landslides then quickly retreated away from the edge when we heard stones still falling from near where we stood.

Chris after crossing the steel box bridge

The valley narrowed into a gorge and before long we were crossing a steel box bridge to the West side of the river. Beyond the bridge we climbed a set of stone steps and looked back towards Tengboché, spotting the monastery, and realising just how far we had come. As we continued Ama Dablam was clearly visible out in front. We passed a few chortens before walking up stone steps and through the gateway which marked the entrance to Pangboché.

A chorten on the trek

Ama Dablam above yak pastures

Lauren leaving Pangboché with Everest and Ama Dablam

We passed through Pangboché, full of trekkers' lodges, and could see Everest poking out from behind the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge once again. We passed over a bridge and climbed our way up the steep slope to Shomaré.

Chris striding out towards Shomaré

Anando and Chris soak up some sun at Everest View Lodge, Shomaré

We asked about rooms and food at one lodge but were turned off by their menu advertising only single servings of dal bhat and Chris informing us that their toilet was a hole in the ground (like many we have used) only this one lacked any kind of composting system.

We settled on Everest View Lodge and tried out the Aussie from Tengboché's suggestion of bargaining. The room price of 100 rupees per person dropped to being free when we told them we would eat all of our meals at their restaurant. Considering that the lodges expected you to eat there anyway I'm not sure why this trick worked but it did and we're not complaining.

We had a lunch of dal bhat and tried to make the most of the multiple servings. Then it was rest time. Despite being advised not to nap at high altitude we gave in and snuck a half hour of sleep. When 2:30pm arrived it was time for acclimation and none of us were happy about it. We rugged up and headed out the door in search of a hill to climb.

 

 

Shomaré to the Hill North-West of Shomaré: The Stats

Distance Walked: 2.4km

Hours and Minutes Taken: 2 hours, 10 minutes

Origin Altitude: Shomaré, 4064m

Destination Altitude: Hill North-West of Shomaré, 4344m

Approximate Total Metres Ascended: 280m

Approximate Total Metres Descended: 280m

Weather: Cloudy getting colder, windier and foggier as we ascended. Clearing to blue skies as we descended

To begin with we followed the path that would tomorrow take us towards Dingboché. From there we spotted a hill rising to our left that was shrouded in cloud. It was perfect for acclimatisation in that it went up and up and up. For over an hour we forged a path through rocks and alpine scrub. It was a steep climb and, at over 4000m, it was tough work. We sheltered from the wind behind large boulders when we could but for the most part it was cold, windy work. Before long the wind picked up and we were well and truly within the cloud. We pulled our beanies down and our neck warmers up before continuing up and up some more.

Acclimatisation in the clouds

When Anando caught up we took a few minutes to breath in the little oxygen available before descending as fast as we could. It was darn cold up there and being in the cloud was making our clothes damp. As we climbed down we followed a gorge which looked more like the moon than anything that belonged on this Earth. The barren terrain had begun.

Back at our lodge we ordered some fried noodles and fried potatoes and sat in the restaurant, heated by burning yak dung. The lights flicked on and off as we ate giving our meal a disco vibe. The lodge only had enough solar power for one light at a time.

With Chris feeling less than average we had an early night. His headache was getting slightly worrying. As we lay in bed we realised that today had been two years since we met. What a way to celebrate.

The skies clear above Shomaré

 

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