Both Chris and I woke only two or three times during the night which made for a nice change. We had finally got some much needed sleep but were still awake by 6:30am to finish off our packing. My stunning safari hats unfortunately wouldn't fit as I have accumulated so much stuff during this trip. We took one last photo and abandoned the hats as well as a pair of ripped pants. You can tell we're on the home stretch now...ditching weight for Nepal.
Big Red started first go...he was not yet aware what we had in stall for him today. Despite seeing numerous cars being towed out of Jaisalmer upon our arrival a few days ago and worrying that this town in the middle of the desert may have a lack of petrol, we filled Big Red with little trouble. Thank goodness too because then we rode through a whole lot of nothing for some time as we began the trek East.We tried to get some breakfast but the deep fried chillies and deep fried bread just weren't appealing. We continued on despite Chris' hands going numb.
Eventually we found a place to purchase some breakfast snacks...those yummy puffed up fried things with potato mix in them. This time we went all out and got two each and they even threw in a plastic bag of yoghurt for our dipping pleasure. We found a place down the road to do our dipping and were surprised by how much we were enjoying the scrubby desert. Maybe it was the lack of people.
The roads, for the most part, were good for the first part of our journey and we managed a few hundred kilometres before 1pm which got us close to Jodhpur. We bypassed the city, picked a route to Pushkar and hoped for the best. The road deteriorated somewhat so our progress slowed to about 40km/h as we dodged potholes galore.
Again we arrived at another junction where we would need to chose a route. One road was closed so we figured our decision was easy...until I asked a local. Bad idea. Contrary to popular belief, they do not always know better than Google Maps. We were instructed to backtrack slightly then take a turn so we could loop around the blocked off part of the road. We made it back onto the correct road with an extra 10km under our belt and some fresh mud on Big Red.
We came to a railway crossing at one point and, as usual, the gates were down despite the fact that the train would not arrive for another ten minutes or so. We watched as numerous people on motorbikes ducked under the gate and moseyed across the railway tracks. Despite our best efforts to do the same, Big Red was just too tall. Eventually the train did go past. While one may think this would have prompted the railway man to open the gates, he did not. Trucks beeped, more motorbikes ducked under and we waited and waited until finally he decided he'd do some work and open the gates for the rest of us.
The last stretch of road before Pushkar was a national highway which, in comparison to the major district road we had travelled on for much of the day, was a smooth ride. Big Red managed 435km before he began to splutter. Good effort! Chris switched him to the reserve tank and we rode, on the lookout for a petrol station. And we rode and rode and rode. Nothing. 22km later with Big Red almost out of puff we spotted a petrol station in the distance. Thank goodness. After a huge day of riding I doubt either of us would have dealt well with pushing Big Red the final 10km into Pushkar.
We topped up as eight or so men stood around to watch and ask the usual questions...where are you from? Where are you going? Do you think your bike is beautiful?
After seeing more dead animals today than the rest of the trip combined I was happy to be off the road. A dog eating a dead cow is not something I ever wished to have seen. And, after being pushed off the road by buses, trucks and cars four or five times, Chris was happy to be 450km closer to Calcutta. It's just so frustrating when a vehicle pulls out from behind another, sees us, has time to honk and flash their lights but continues to drive at us, knowing full well that a motorbike will never win a game of chicken and that we will be forced into the gravel, or dirt or thorny bushes.
We were so happy to be in Pushkar that we settled on the first guesthouse we looked at after not being able to find the one recommended by TripAdvisor. We passed on the 250 rupee room and settled on the one with the grand bathroom for 500. After some well deserved hot showers it was time for a guesthouse dinner and we hoped and prayed it would be yummier than the bland food more often than not served in touristy places. We were not disappointed. The best Malai Kofta yet, a yummy mixed veg korma, tasty veg biriyani and garlic butter naans to go with it.
We finished the meal we went in search of chocolate but instead found coffee toffee treats for 1 rupee each! How could I say no! As Danesh the shopkeeper told us, they are 10 rupees worth of taste for only 1 rupee. I had to laugh when he asked me if they were to give the local kids or for myself...how generous does he think I am? We got some choc biscuits for Chris and returned home to laze around and digest.
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